1932 Alfa Romeo Spider Touring Gran Sport
Turn. Don't Burn.
It's as easy as
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Started 1 June 2024 completed 11 July 2025
There’s a rather amusing story behind this build.
Liking a challenge, and Pocher kits apparently providing such a challenge, I bought a model of the Pocher Alfa Romeo Spider Touring Gran Sport 1932 (1/8th scale ) from someone. Later on, I heard of another guy who also had one for sale. I contacted him, and asked which model Alfa it was. He sent a pic of the Monza. I went to buy the kit but, upon arrival, saw that it was in fact the one that I already had. I have been described as being an armadillo , and couldn’t say no to his motivations/reasons for me having two, so I bought it. Later on, I discovered that a lot of parts were missing. I contacted him and he refunded me without an issue (today we are friends). I was a bit disillusioned by the one I had bought (after having googled the Monza) and so I sold it.
Time went by, and guess what…..? He has commissioned me to see how much of the car I am able to build. (I.e., Put it in a diorama, make only the engine, etc., etc. The choice is mine). So I guess I’ll be building a Pocher after all.
The instructions are not instructions as one would expect in the modelling world, but rather a collection of (a few) exploded diagrams. Thankfully there are some very adept model builders who have recorded and posted their work online. This will be a nice challenge.
I started with the engine because all the kit parts were there. Easy enough. I then started going down the rabbit hole of adding “just one more thing” and designed and printed a few 3D parts. A number of missing components are those used to make things “work” (such as rods and nuts and bolts) so instead of beating myself up, I will make this a fully static model. Other than that, I don’t yet know where I’m going to end up, but so far, this is fun.
Thus far, the nuts, screws, bulkhead, bonnet springs, front axle, and suspension packs are missing. Some good scratchbuilding awaits me.
The piston assembly is quite cool and looks great when one turns the crankshaft. However, but I have decided to omit it because, besides the fact that one won’t see it anyway, the top of the engine block is not moulded correctly so that one can leave the top off to show the pistons. I might make it a stand-alone feature – totally separate from the car. (EDIT: this did not work as it all crumbled when I tried to re-assemble it correctly)
As previously mentioned, the nuts are missing, as are most of the rods. To assemble the undercarriage frame, I used styrene rods, and while the glue was drying, I secured the whole lot using simple maskimng tape! Once the glue had dried, I fitted the engine.
I have scratchbuilt a replacement bulkhead, attached it to the firewall, and attached that to the undercarriage. This sounds easy, but the body did not fit well, so that needed to be sanded to fit first so that I could get find the exact placement of the firewall.
This was followed by making the instrument panel. I did not have decals for the instruments, so I found photos online and had them printed on photo paper. I am pleased with the results.
I then finished the first phase of the engine build and weathering. (I might add more details at a later stage). This is already beyond "out of the box" level. The instructions are really sub-standard and a lot of research is required if one wants to build a half-decent model.
It seems as though all the kit-required parts for the engine construction is accounted for. I decided to 3D print a bunch of extras (nuts, bolts, connectors – and a decent-looking horn!!) in order to take the engine to the next level. So far, I have noticed that the bulkhead is missing, as well as the “cross beam” between the two chassis sides that the radiator rests on, are missing. I will be able to scratch build the bulkhead because the firewall has a similar face, but the cross beam….. Not so sure. I will make a plan to attach everything though. Thankfully this model won’t be up for any serious scrutiny as regards accuracy!
Dry fit of the body and sideboards/mudguards. These needed a lot of cutting, filing, sanding to get a fit.
My biggest challenge with this build is caused by missing parts, including screws, nuts, and bolts. The client's request was for me to see what I could do with what I had. However, I find it difficult to build an incomplete model unless I plan to do so and deliberately omit parts. Challenge accepted!
The major missing parts are: the spring blade packs, and also the front axle.
Knowing someone who exclusively builds Pocher models, I was able to get measurements for the spring packs and the axle. I then designed the 3D models (yes, I am learning do do 3D modelling) and subsequently printed them.
Finally, I have spoked the rims. This took 12hrs to complete.
For those looking for reference build pics (as I did ), I regret to say: please do more research. These might not be accurate.I was able to pull the tyres over using the same technique that one uses to change a bicycle tyre.
I plan to leave one wheel off so as to show the brake shoes but the shaft that the wheel goes on looks really toyish. After some searching on the internet, I was able to find a reference photo and so I designed and 3D printed it. I'd say the results speak for themselves.
What started out as a nightmare has become a personal challenge and I am really having great fun! I have designd and printed many small parts that are missing.
I have painted the body and bumpers, and almost completed the rolling chassis. Here are some photos of a dry fit, and of the rolling chassis at this stage.
Well, I have finally finished what I had wanted to do to the engine and am satisfied with the result. I have no idea what the parts are called, but I added rods and linkages and some pipes!! LOL!
Finished making a display case and base. I have also completed the rolling chassis (barring a few paint touch-ups) , which is now able to stand as a single display item, should something untoward happen that prevents me from finishing the model.
There were some issues with the windscreen (fit problems and it had a crack in it), so I decided to make a new one and also side panels to ensure that the glass thickness was consistent. I used 1mm acrylic sheet and this worked well. I could not get the exact curvature, which led to me making a spacer between the body and windscreen.
I fitted and painted the spacer, then attached the windshield to the body. All good.
However: when I fitted the body to the chassis, it tilted up at the back slightly because the instrument panel was 1.5mm too high. I did not want to fiddle, and was able to bend the body down at the back and secure it to the chassis using the provided screws.
This led to the windscreen pulling loose in one corner. I then bought some 1.5mm black tape as used to pinstripe RC cars and added a black line to cover the gap. I decided on this tape because it can withstand the rigors that RC cars endure without coming loose. Problem solved.
The following are photos of the completed build. I am very pleased with the result considering what I had to work with (missing parts, and lack of detail in the kit). In total, I designed and 3D printed 33 parts (excluding nuts and bolts).
The photos are not great, but you'll get the idea.
..... and of course, my personal touch.
