As I elsewhere mentioned, I build models of things that appeal to me. (Except for  customer commission build requests, which I build according to the commission requirements).

I'd had my eye on this Sopwith Camel for a while as it was a large plane, which meant that it offered more detailing opportunities than most standard kits. Also, I missed working with wood. 

I hinted to my wife that this would make a spectacular birthday present!! 

1/16th Sopwith Camel

 BY Latina Artesania

Before I start any build I start reseaching. I do this so that I know what the end product SHOULD look like and not putting all my trust in the accuracy of the kit manufacturer. 

I took my quest for hunting detail online and found some restoration sites, some museums, and loads of build blogs of the Sopwith Camel biplane - albeit that they were in different scales.

Sifting through the plans, websites, and emailing people back and forth, meant that it took me about two months after I'd gotten the kit to me I glueing the first part. I followed the kit instructions and soon had the fuselage assembled.  

My research was, however ongoing, and I quickly regretted having started that soon. Artesania provided flat photo etch strips for the wing edges and on the real plane, these were in fact round rods. With no second thoughts and using acetone, I stripped them off and made, then fitted correct-looking ones.

[Note to self: going forward, research first before assembling!].  

I find that I like to get the tedious, challenging or boring parts of a build done first. Almost like eating my veggies first and leaving the meat for last! My reason for doing so is simply because it means that the finished model will have all the parts - including the aforementioned ones! With this in mind, and having studied various build blogs to see how others have tackled the building of a Sopwith, looking at the kit instructions and using my own savvy, I devised a build plan that I was happy with. I carefully put the fuselage away in a secure place as, according to my plan, this would be a part I would only get to MUCH later.

I managed to get some time on this build again today. Here are photos of the kit engine and one I 3D resin printed. No prizes for guessing which is which! 

Here the completed engine can be seen, dry-fitted (which is why the alignment is out) on the base plate and then under the cowling.

The cowling has been primered with Rust-Oleum Spray Paint

I decided to tackle the wheels instead of the seat. The parts for these are provided in the form of a metal cast rims+tyre thing that is not very attractive, and the spokes are of photoetch. 

I assembled them using cynoacrylate, and painted everfything with Rust-Oleum.

The jury is still out as to whether or not I am happy with using them as-is. I mean, the spokes are too wide, and FLAT! 

However, to try and fit 36 spokes on a 5mm diameter hub and 32mm outer rim, is insane and a super engineering feat. Also, even if I were to use 0.3mm diameter stainless steel rods as scale would dictate, then I doubt whether they would be able to support the weight of the finished model. 

I'll move on for now, and perhaps replace them with a set of covered wheels once the entire model has been completed and if I find that these wheels don't suit the model.    

My birthday arrived and so did my plane! I immediately started studying the plans and parts! After some online reference hunting, it did not take me long to realise that the quality of some of the kit parts was poor. This meant that these would diminish the quality of the finished model down to toy status. This was not necessarily a bad thing, because it opened the door to scratch building options and 3D printed parts. I was fired up again! I cleaned up my work benches (Yes, I always clean up completely between builds) and was ready to start.

Looks much better!

Started: 1 Dec 2021. Completed 11 November 2023

This kit sure has a lot of photo etched parts, a lot of metal parts and the rest being wood. The metal parts are typical of most white metal moulded parts - meaning that the detail is not crisp. That, in turn, meant that I would have to either scratch build the parts that I was not happy with, 3D print them, or just accept them and move on. The engine, being next on my plan, was one such part and accepting the parts as they had been provided, was simply not an option.

Right. Back to the engine..... 

For obvious reasons, I opted to use the engine that I had printed and, simply because the engine will mostly be hidden from view behind the cowling, I decided not to spend too much time on details.

I do have quite a bit to do on the engine though, as I am not quite happy with it. I'll get back to that later on, though. For now, let me say that the prop is finished (I started  on it a while back and had left the varnish to dry). Today I gave it a final rub down and added the metal thingy in front and back. (Photo etch).

 

It is formed from six separate pieces of wood that were glued together, then sanded to shape.

Touch 2X Ultra Cover - Flat White. At a much later stage, I intend painting it a bright red. The reason I use Rust-Oleum is because it is cheaper than model-specific paints and it does the job.

I have a friend who almost feints every time I tell him that I used Rust-Oleum! (Not really, but it seems like it!)

I decided to remove the engine mounting plate that I had initiallly fitted. Doing this would make it easier for me to access and work on things in the front of the fuselage, such as cabling. (Again, this highlights the importance of planning before starting).

It's taken a while, but adding builds to this site has been taking up most of my time. I still have twenty two build blogs left to write and add. Also that activity called a "day job" (for which I am super grateful) takes up a lot of time. Plus training for a marathon, doing chores... etc////  Nonetheless, I have made the instrument panel.

Finally, I have a seat that I am happy with. The cast metal seat provide in the kit was simply not crisp, which is why I decided to make my own. I got some guidance from the internet and set to work. Little did I realise that trying to replicate someone else’s work, which is in scale 1/8th, whilst mine is in 1/16th, is not easy.

I used the kit seat as a template for measurements. First I drew the wicker pattern, then using 0.3mm diameter copper wire, I made a jig so that I could uniformly bend each strand. That went well and I quickly shaped them all. The next step was to solder them together. I taped them in position using masking tape, and soldered them all. But then it turned into a disaster.

I had not used my mini torch in a few years, and realised that I had run out of MAPP gas as well as oxygen. I was able to source MAPP gas, but nobody had the oxygen container, nor could they refill mine.

I tried my normal soldering iron, but that was not hot enough. I then turned to my butane Dremel torch but despite using thermal barrier paste, things did not look pretty. The end result was horrific to say the least.

Using my (very) limited 3D design skills, I designed the seat for 3D printing and printed it. Then I copied the shape of the kit’s chair back onto masking tape, stuck that to the back on my printed model and trimmed the uprights to shape. I do not know how to draw shaped round bars, so I bent one from copper wire and glued it onto the frame. Happiness!

I painted the seat black and got stuck into doing the weaving. Once done, I painted the visible black parts of the frame using Tamiya’s Dark Sand. I had also designed and printed the seat, which I painted using Vallejo Calvary brown, followed by random dabs of Tamiya Brown panel liner.

The lap strap was tricky in that I could not find any resources besides what other guys had made. So I made my own using masking tape, and 0.5mm lead solder for the buckle.

Not being happy with the one supplied by Artesania, (on the left), I decided to design my own instruments for 3D printing and printed them. The wood backing was made from beech. 
I still have to add pipes, but will do that at the installation phase.
(i.e in a while from now!)  

According to my projected build plan, I am nearing the time for making the wings, which look as though they could be "fun". 

Before I get to that however, I still have a few smaller parts to make. I think I'll do the guns next.... I am of two minds whether to 3D print them, or make some improvements to the ones supplied in the kit (cast metal).

The blue seat is a photo of a replica made by, and courtesy of John Shaw at http://www.johnsshawaviation.co.uk/.

These guns are a bit of challenge. I could quite easily use them as supplied, but that would leave me restless, knowng that they are not pefect (or close).

I have found some files online (my 3D design is very limited!!), but somehow they are also not quite right.

My main concern is the muzzle area. I tried to drill and file it out, but the metal is extremely hard and I obviously don't have the right tools for the job. I get close, but not good enough.

The original Vickers.        Artesania's version      See? Not quite right.           3D printed

After printing them, I airbrushed the guns with AK interactive Black Primer & Microfiller. It gives a beautiful semi-gloss finish. After that, I drybrushed the high parts with Vallejo Metal Color 7712 - Steel. One of my all time favourite paints. It actually LOOKS like steel.

I'll add some graphite highlights when I eventually fit these to the plane.

 

I finally got some work done on my own model for a change! Unfortunately, it was not a lot because I really need those ribs to glue solid and be at 90degrees! Hopefully I'll get to this again in the not-too-distant future! 

I have made some mods to the downloaded 3D files. If that does not produce nice guns, then I am am going to see if I can combine the best parts of the kit guns with the best of the 3D parts. Somehow I will get it right to have decent-looking guns. 

 

Well, it's taken a while but, after many failed attempts, long hours and much persistence, I finally have a pair of Vickers machine guns that I am happy with. I think anyone will agree that they look MUCH better than the kit supplied guns.

(Thank you to whoever uploaded the files to grabcad!)

Well, this is embarassing...... but I'll note it for others to learn from. 

 

Following my decision to make a concerted effort to put time aside so that I can continue with my build, I started the upper wing. I did not get far, because I have decided that I want to see if I am able to find rods that look more like steel, or that I can at least paint.  I then took photos of the lower wing segments and also of the upper wing - intending to post them side by side in one picture. That is when I noticed my error. (You might recall from other build articles,  that I like to use photographs to see my work from a different perspective).

 

I had made both left and right lower wing segments identical (See photo below) - as opposed to mirroring them. Now I have to see how to unglue the wood glue and then redo them. If not, I will have to remake them from scratch but then also remake the upper wing so that I get to use the same wood. PLUS I will have to scratch build the stabiliser ribs as well.  

Success! With minimal effort, I was able to unglue the ribs and then re-assemble the bottom starboard wing section.

 

In the mean time, I am battling to decide exactly how much I want to replace/scratchbuild of the original kit. I would like the final product to look as authentic as possible, but at the same time, it was a birthday gift. That means, I don't want to hurt my wife's feelings by ending up replacing about 60% of the kit parts! (which is what is required as Artesania did not do such a great job in detailing the parts authentically. They did not hold back on their pricing though! This is a beautiful, easy kit if one just wants to build a kit. But if you are after detail, then rather scratch build your own).

 

My current (mental) dilemma is what to do with the edging of the wings. These are provided as photo etched parts in the kit, but research shows that these were in fact round metal rods. This is a big issue so I decided to do the right thing and make my own. Now I am hunting to find the right material.

 

Until I do, I will park the wings and move on to another section. There is still much to be done. I have to carefully plan the steps ahead though, as it could lead to complications if I were to tackle a section that makes accessing another section inaccessible later on. Thankfully, there are some really good build blogs on the internet that I am referencing from. I refer to  Artesania's instructions as a basic guide, but because they have skimped largely on detail, I use others as well.

Though it's been a while since I updated this build, I have been busy chipping away at it and have made good progress. 

Having decided that the photo-etched part provided by Artesania for the <thingamabob that the control lines pass through> really does not resemble the actual part on a real plane, I decided to make a more realistic-looking one.  

The main fuel tank needed some turnbuckles and straps, so I made some.

I had some issues when removing the fuselage from the jig in that the entire horizontal stabilizer assembly came loose. This was not too bad, as after that happened, I was able to give it a good second look and decided to redo it because it was sub-sandard. It turned out to be a good move.

However, my woes did not end there. I got super busy at work and was not able to get back to the plane for a while. During that time, I had forgotten what I had done with the dislodged frame secton that the stabilizer attaches to. Experience has taught me that it is usually quicker to remake a part than to spend hours searching for it. So that is exactly what I did. 

Having completed the Italeri Triumph and Italeri Fiat, I have continued with the Sopwith. There is so much research to do though that I have not been able to actually BUILD anything yet!

 

Just a quick update to show that I am still around.

 

I have been designing and testing turnbuckles for 3D printing, and also battling to find the right rod to finish off the wing structures. I was able to get some 1.6mm annealed binding wire, but it was too badly pitted to be of use. Also, it had a curve that I found extremely difficult to get absolutely straight. So I susequently gave up on using that. A friend of mine has promised to bring me some 1.6mm aluminium rod tomorrow. Holding thumbs.....

 

So.... watch this space!

 

It's been a while since my last update. The site builder provider decided to update the site builder - after which my website was messed up. My host company helped sort it out with them. Hopefully the updated version will not be too steep a learning curve for me.

 

My friend gave me some 1.6mm aluminium rods that I used with great success to replace the photo etch that Artesania provided for the wing edges. (No idea what they were thinking to use PE in place of round iron rods...) 

 

I am happy with the results.

It's been a while since my last update. I have been wrestling with the vertical stabilizer and rudder. The supplied parts are photo-etched and do not look realistic because they are too thin. I have decided that I will cover and paint the vertical stabilzier and rudder. 

In the meantime, I beefed them up a bit using styrene and then sanding it to an even taper. You see, the PE was only on the one side of the rod, and this really looked odd. I have drawn pictures below to explain as this is not very obvous to see on the photos. 

Next I added the fuel lines. (NOT indicated or supplied in Artesania's kit!). Thankfully I was able to find some diagrams online. I used 1mm electrical coper wire.

First I fitted the pressure fuel tank, and then gradually installed the plumbing. I designed and 3D printed the connectors.

I'll route the final lengths of the plumbing when I fit the instrument panel.  

 

For now, I need to focus on completing the Garage Diorama commission build.

Then I'll return to the Sopwith.

The reason why I don't want to split my focus is that I will next be continuing with the empennage and then the fuselage rigging. That will need serious focus (I think.....).

 

I'm back. The Auto Repair diarama is complete. 

 

I asked a buddy who builds RC planes to show me how to cover the tail rudder. I am busy with that now and it is a learning curve for me. I'll post photos when I have succeeded.

Just a quick update.
I am struggling to get the covering on the empennage smooth. I covered the photo etched parts with surgical tape. This worked well as can be seen in the photos. However, I wasn't sure that tape's glue would hold for the next 30 years, so I applied some CA along the edges. I was a bit heavy-handed though and it ended up giving a rough finish. I then put Polyfilla fine Crack filler on to level it out but now it is taking long to sand evenly. Every time I think I've succeeded, I notice a rough spot.

It might very well go quicker if I were to strip it all down and redo it. 

 

9 September: It's been a long time and I am still battling get the coverings smooth. I am making progress though - albeit slow.

5 November Yes, it's been two months since my last update. I am, however, very happy to be able to say I have finally been successful.

 

After much sanding and filling upo the dents, I sprayed the parts with primer.

All that did though, was to highlight other dents and imperfections. Every time I though  I was winning, another issue would show. So I stripped it all down and started again. 

 

I again used Micropore tape but the problem is that the Photoetched metal is 0.5mm thick and the gap in the rudder and vertical stabiliser varied because of the taper. This led to the tape sticking to the other side - causing a dent/hollow. 

 

This time round though, I did not mess around trying to fill it, sand, primer, etc. etc. and immediately upon realising the cause of the isse, I again stripped the Micropore tape from the frame. I cut filler pieces of paper card to fit snuggly inside the frame, and made sure that it was smooth. THEN I applied Micropore tape again, primer, a bit of sanding, then painted.

Happiness.

I am extremely happy to be posting this update. I have successfully finished the Sowith to the point where I can start on the control lines and fuselage rigging. That will be a mission in itself, but nonetheless, this is progress I am satisfied with. 

(click to find out more)

After that challenge,I decided to take a bit of a detour and make the tensioning wires. To do this, I stripped 0,1mm shielding wires from a satelite dish cabe and stwisted it together (clamping one end in a benchvice, the other end in an electric hand drill, and slowly turning it until I had the look I wanted and at the correct thickness. - in this case, 0.2mm)

Artesania never ceases to amaze me with their laziness. Well...... I have concluded that they are either lazy, think modelbuilders are stupid, or they simly don't care about us because they sell substandard kits of great models sujects to us and charge ridonculous prices! Worst is probably that we actually buy them! 

 

Ok Rant over.

The issue in this case was that they provided Photoetch for turnbuckles.  They looked really pathetic.

 

From the photos below, left to right, one sees the PE turnbuckles, then on the right, a genuine turnbuckle. From the row below that, on the left, one can see one that I had desgned, and on the right, a 3D model file I had found and printed. It looked much better than my attempted one but the problem with this one was that it was not strong enough to stand up to the required torcques that are neededd to support the structures. 

When I tried to drill 0.25m holes into the lugs, they either crumbled at that point, or broke off when I fitten the strapping wire.  So it was back to the drawing board.

I am going to figure out a way to make turnbuckles that will give me the most realistic look, but without breaking my head. Then I'll need to get back to the wings. Still so much  to do.

(This update to the website builder is so messed up that it completely sucked the mojo to build out of me!) 

 

It's been a while since my last update, but I finally have something to show.

 

Wanting to enhance the look of the cockpit, I made turnbuckles for the steering control lines in the cockpit area. Artesania provides thin black nylon line for the control lines, when in reality, they are cables.

Initially, I twisted some cables from satelite cable screening but realising that it would be a nightmare to get them taught, I went hunting for something else to use. I found metalic silver yarn (cotton) that looks pretty close.  

 

Finished attaching the control lines.

Continuing with the wings, I decided to scratch build the wooden part that is found in the centre of the upper wing, above the pilot (no idea what it's called! I build models - as opposed to restoring real planes and needing to order spare parts buy name).

The next step was to affix strips of 0.5mm x 2.5mm edging to either side of each rib. I used a lot of superglue (cyanoacrylate) in this process - ironing the strips on using a heat sealing iron as used by model radio controlled aircraft builders when they affix the material to their balsa planes).

How this worked for me in affixing the wooden strips to the rib edges, is that it heated up the wood, and thereby sucked the superglue right into it! (Yes, there were many fumes!) I had learnt this technique when building the HMS Victory and le Hussard (when affixing hull planking).  This was a long, but rewarding process.

It's cold here and I was wearing a rather loose-fitting jersey, which made me constantly fearful of hooking the model and whipping it off the workbench! But as they say.... "all's well that ends well". I am happy with the progress thus far.

 

Next up: doing the internal fuselage supports - including MANY brackets and turnbuckles. It might be a while before my next post, but I 'll be back!

Applying layers of woodglue until they had acquired the desired thickness and shape, I finally managed to successfully modify the provided (photoetched) "Turnbuckles".

Then, after quite a few more experiments, I opted to blacken it using a black Fineliner permanent marking pen. Looks fine to me. 

 

Next up: fuselage support braces.

Fitted all the fuselage bracing wire turnbuckles.

                                                  Fuselage bracing wires fitted.

 

and cockpit finished

I am not sure what the part to the right is called, could be a support for the pilot to step onto, but whatever it's called, it was wood, and not a 2D flat thing such as provided by Artesania.

I made my own. 

The wing bracing wires were next. It was not a complex job and the process flowed well. I did away with all the connecting parts supplied in the kit because had I used them, the support lines would have not been straight and direct between each loop and would have looked really bad! Artesania did not put much thought into the design.  

As can be seen in the picture to the right, the loop bracket is flat (photoetch) and flush with the top of the beam. the wire then has to go up and over the hole in the rib. Not right. So I made loops from 0.4mm wire and having 1mm inner diameter, drilled holes and glued them in the centre on the beam so that the wires run straight between the connecting loops. 

The photo is not too clear, but I have attached all the wing support wires in the wings. I used the same silver cotton thread as when I did the fuselage support wires. I am pleased with the results.

I have finished the wings. (support wires and all!)

I stained the wood and then applied a coat of clear varnish.

Following that, I did the aeleron control lines and made and fitted the pulley inspection windows. 

I forgot to take a photo before starting, but the photo to the right shows what the interplane struts and cabanes looked like before I started the next step (except for the shape of course!) 

 

The photos below show the sequence of what I did to give a wood-grain effect.

I started by applying a metal etch primer, followed by a coat of Tamiya Flat Earth (XF52) acrylic. 

After having permanantly attached the wings, the following photo shows where I'm at now. . 

Once that had dried, I put blobs of burnt umber, raw umber, and lamp black oil paint onto a piece of carboard to leach the oil. 

Then, using a #2 brush, I applied dots of raw umber all over the piece, followed by dots of burnt umber. Using old brush (i.e. more worn and a bit frayed), I streaked the dots in a downward direction. Because it is oil, the paint left slightly raised steaks, which is what I wanted. I then took a sharp-pointed #2 brush and painted thin raggeddy lines in swift downward motions to further enhance the grain look. 

This took a week to dry and I then painted a clear gloss over the whole lot to seal it in. That is now busy drying and when dry, i will polish it to a smooth finish.

Well, things didn't go too well since my last post. The turnbuckles, though they looked acceptable, ended up being misaligned and when I started rigging them, the lines did not line up with the turnbuckles and it all just looked wrong! That is when I decided to make my own. I found some references on the internet and used 1mm brass tubing and 0.3mm wire, made some that look ok.  

I then stripped all the kit turnbuckles off, and fitted the ones I had made. Though these look different to the kit ones, it's ok because they are all on the wings and the wings had different fittings to that used in the fuselage anyway. (Even though they were not accurately provided by Artisania! Photo on the left)

Now to source cotton for the rigging. The stuff supplied by Artesania is WAY too fluffy. Though I will be able to eliminate that by rubbing wood glue into the fibres, I'd prefer not to, because doing so might lead to challenges when affixing the cotton to the turnbuckles.

(That will be plan B). It feels as though the beginning of the end is in sight.

I am progressing quickly now. I have also sourced cotton that will serve the purpose. This means that, if all goes well, this model will be finished soon.

 

I have: finished the rigging, fitted the engine and cowling, chutes, and landing gear.

Now for the final touches. 

After 350 hours, 55min, I am calling it done! This has not been a super challenging build but it was frustrating in it's lack of detail. I am rather proud and satisfied now that I have completed it.

I am super grateful to my wife for having gifted this model to me! It was a very rewarding experience and her support and admiration means the world to me!